ROAD SORTIES Featured Trips

Million Dollar Highway: Ouray to Durango

75 miles of Colorado's most dramatic mountain driving — no guardrails, 11,000-foot passes, and sheer cliff edges.

Colorado • 75 miles • 4 stops

Photo: Stilfehler / CC BY-SA 3.0
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About This Trip

The Million Dollar Highway — US 550 through the San Juan Mountains — is the road that driving enthusiasts describe in reverent, slightly nervous terms. The 25-mile stretch between Ouray and Silverton is the heart of it: a narrow two-lane road carved into the face of 12,000-foot mountains, with drop-offs of hundreds of feet and, for long stretches, no guardrails. The name's origin is disputed — some say it cost a million dollars per mile to build, others that a passenger on the original toll road said she wouldn't drive it again for a million dollars.

Ouray, at the northern end, bills itself as the Switzerland of America and earns it. The small Victorian mining town sits at 7,800 feet in a near-perfect horseshoe bowl of 13,000-foot peaks, accessible by road only through narrow canyon slots to the north and south. Ouray's natural hot springs fill a public pool in the center of town.

Leaving Ouray, US 550 begins climbing immediately. The road negotiates Red Mountain Pass at 11,018 feet past the ruined headframes of 19th-century silver mines, their iron structures staining the surrounding rock a vivid rust red that gives the pass its name. The colors here — red rock, white snow, blue sky — can look artificially saturated even in an unedited photograph.

Silverton is the midpoint: a National Historic Landmark town of 600 people that feels entirely preserved from the mining era. The main street hasn't changed much since the 1880s. The historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a coal-fired steam train, arrives here daily from Durango — you can often see its smoke rising above town.

The final section from Silverton to Durango crosses Molas Pass and Coal Bank Pass before descending through the Animas River canyon into Durango, a lively college town with excellent food and a beer scene that makes a satisfying end to an intense drive.

Best time to drive: June through October. The road is plowed in winter but Red Mountain Pass can close without warning during heavy snowfall. Fall color (late September to mid-October) combines golden aspen groves with the red rock and snow for the most dramatic conditions of the year. Motorcyclists consider this one of the premier rides in the United States.

Stops

  1. Ouray, CO — Switzerland of America

    Begin in the Victorian mining town of Ouray, ringed by 13,000-foot peaks and accessible only through tight canyon gaps. The natural hot springs pool in the center of town is a good place to relax the night before a demanding drive. The Box Canyon Falls & Park is a short walk from downtown and genuinely impressive.

  2. Red Mountain Pass (11,018 ft)

    The crux of the Million Dollar Highway. The road here is carved directly into the cliff face with near-vertical drop-offs and no guardrails on the outer edge. The surrounding rock is stained vivid red-orange from iron oxide leaching out of the old mine tailings. Ruined headframes and mining equipment sit visible on the slopes above the road. Pull over only in designated areas — the edge is exactly as close as it looks.

  3. Silverton, CO — National Historic Landmark

    A town of 600 people at 9,318 feet that hasn't changed much since the silver boom of the 1880s. The unpaved main street, historic hotel facades, and surrounding mine ruins are all authentic. The coal-fired Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad arrives here daily — watching the steam train pull in against the backdrop of 13,000-foot peaks is a genuine time-warp moment.

  4. Durango, CO

    The drive's comfortable end point — a college town with a lively Main Avenue restaurant district, excellent craft breweries, and the historic Strater Hotel. The Durango & Silverton Railroad departs from the downtown depot; if you want the full experience, book a round-trip train ride back to Silverton and drive the other direction.